Camino del Salvador – León to Oviedo

The first day of the Camino de San Salvador starts in León, leaving behind the Camino Francés and heading towards the mountains of Asturias. The route follows the Bernesga River, gaining elevation until reaching La Robla. The ascent is gradual, with some significant climbs along the way, totaling 600 meters of elevation gain.

This day’s journey is not overly demanding, although it does feature two steep ascents. The route begins at Plaza San Marcos in León and continues through various streets and ring roads, guided by signs and yellow arrows. During the walk, we pass through urban areas like Carbajal de la Legua, with its adobe houses, and eventually reach Cabanillas.

Throughout the day, we enjoy forest paths, holly woods, and beautiful landscapes of the Bernesga River valley. After crossing several bridges and fountains, the journey nears La Robla, an industrial town.

The route is a mix of paved and rural roads, with some challenging sections and others more peaceful.

By the end of day two on the Camino de San Salvador, we find ourselves deep in the Cantabrian mountains, leaving civilization behind. The day offers challenging terrain and stunning views. Key stops include Buiza, where we must bring food from La Pola de Gordón, and Poladura de la Tercia, where we must either carry provisions or call ahead for meals.

The Camino's path includes historic sites such as an 18th-century aqueduct and the Puente de Alba bridge, as well as scenic moments like the Ermita de Buen Suceso. The journey through towns like Peredilla and Nocedo de Gordón provides diverse landscapes, from paved roads to quiet trails along the River Bernesga.

The path climbs steeply through the mountains, offering breathtaking views, and eventually leads to a series of gravel roads and trails as we ascend towards our destination. The climb continues with stunning vistas of Buiza below and rugged mountain terrain ahead.

The path, once a Roman road, leads to Chanza Peak, where the summit cairn marks the top of the climb. After taking in the view, we begin our descent into the Valle de la Tercia, passing through pine forests and rugged terrain.

As the descent continues, views of the Tercia valley and the nearby town of Rodiezmo emerge. The journey through the mountains is challenging but rewarding, offering us the chance to experience stunning landscapes, historic paths, and moments of quiet reflection.

Day three from Poladura to Pajares was a stunning journey, starting with a challenging climb from Poladura to the Cruz de San Salvador and continuing to the Canto la Tusa peak. The day includes a beautiful walk over Puerto de Pajares at an elevation of 1400 meters, offering spectacular mountain views.

An alternative shorter route leads to Pajares, while the longer route offers more scenic views. For those aiming for a moderate day, Llanos de Somerón is a good option, providing a balanced distance. It is also advised to carry food and water, as there are few places to replenish along the way.

The day includes multiple significant climbs, including the Cruz de San Salvador at 1456 meters and the Canto la Tusa at 1569 meters. The dramatic mountain landscapes and challenging terrain make this stage one of the most beautiful but tough on the Camino.

The route is marked by yellow arrows and includes diverse landscapes, from rocky ridges to steep descents. Along the way, we pass through serene meadows and cross high ridges, each offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountain ranges. The descent from Canto la Tusa is steep, but the reward is an unforgettable vista.

We will reach the town of Arbás del Puerto. From here, we can take a short detour to visit the Colegiata de Santa María de Arbás, a historic church with impressive architecture. The church, originally built in 1116, was a pilgrimage hospital and later expanded with the construction of a church by King Alfonso IX in 1216. The building is Romanesque in style and was declared a historic monument in 1931.

Then we will reach the steep descent towards Asturias. This section can be challenging, especially in poor weather conditions. Once we reach the bottom, we can follow a path with incredible views of the Ubiñas Mountains.

Day four on the Camino de San Salvador begins with a climb out of San Miguel, following a high path along the Río Pajares valley. This part of the journey is challenging, both physically and mentally.

The route follows the road for a short distance, then takes a sharp downhill path leading to Santa Marina. This quiet, scenic road offers views of the surrounding mountains. The journey continues on forest paths, winding toward Llanos de Somerón. The terrain becomes steeper and rockier before reaching Llanos de Somerón, where there is a brief rest at the Parroquia de Santiago de Llanos de Somerón.

From Llanos de Somerón, the path follows toward Puerto de los Fierros. After passing through several towns, including Fresneo and Herías, the path becomes narrower and more rugged, offering stunning mountain views.

Finally, after a challenging series of climbs and descents, we arrive at Campomanes. The terrain was demanding, and while the beauty of the surroundings is appreciated.

A few meters later, the trail leads to an open field with a concrete waymark, marking the path forward. Turning around in the field, we might miss the Ermita de San Miguel, a small, historic chapel in the mountains.

Herías appears on the hillside, signaling the town's proximity. Upon reaching the town center, the large Asturian hórreos (traditional granaries) caught our attention.

The next stretch from Herías to Campomanes involves a steep uphill climb, followed by a difficult, downhill descent. The small size of Campomanes makes it easy to reach the center. We can taste typical food in a cider house, paired with red wine to replenish our energy.

Today the Camino de San Salvador is a long trek through two river valleys, the Río Lena and Río Caudal, passing historic landmarks, including the 9th-century UNESCO site, Iglesia de Santa Cristina de Lena.

If the route starts in Campomanes, we can visit the historic Capilla del Santo Cristo. Continuing on, the Camino follows the Río Lena before leading to the Santa Cristina de Lena church, a key highlight of the day. After a short but steep climb, we can enjoy stunning views from the church's hilltop.

The rest of the day involves a scenic descent toward the town of Cobertoría, followed by a steep climb through the village. After crossing the Río Lena on a footbridge, we head towards La Pola de Lena, a larger town with ample services.

This stage provides a mix of history, nature, and rural Spanish life, making it a memorable but challenging section of the Camino. After some kilometers, we continue the path toward Villallana, passing the historic 16th-century pilgrim's hospital.

After a footbridge, we continue along a river trail that merges with the Río Caudal. In Ujo, we walk through town to visit the 12th-century Iglesia de Santa Eulalia de Ujo, then return to the riverwalk. The path is largely along the river until reaching Mieres del Camino.

This last stage of the Camino de San Salvador is a scenic yet shorter walk, featuring hills with beautiful views of Oviedo. The mist adds a mystical atmosphere to the journey. The day begins with a stop in Olloniego, where there are cafés for a quick break.

The route includes various climbs and descents. The walk starts in Mieres del Camino, passes through towns like La Peña, La Rebollá, and El Rollu, and continues with climbs and misty scenery. After crossing the town of Olloniego, we reach the historic medieval center with the Conjunto Histórico de Olloniego. The day ends as the walk enters Oviedo, a city known for its stunning cathedral and Catholic relics.

Throughout the walk, the mist provides an ethereal backdrop, making the final approach to Oviedo especially memorable.

The text provides a detailed account of a section of the Camino del Salvador, describing the journey from a medieval bridge near the town of Portazgo to Oviedo. Key landmarks include the historic Puente de Olloniego bridge, which once had a toll and is now dry due to the diversion of the Río Nalón in the 18th century. The Camino passes through small towns like Pico de Lanza and Venta del Aire, with steep climbs and beautiful views of the mountains.

We walk on ancient Roman roads, passing Roman markers and remnants of old roads, often through dense vegetation. The trek includes significant climbs such as the Alto de Picullanza, where views of Oviedo appear. As the journey continues, the landscape transitions to more pastoral scenes with hórreos (traditional granaries) in towns like San Miguel de la Pereda.

The route leads to the outskirts of Oviedo, where we enter the city limits and descend toward the main part of the city. Upon reaching the center of Oviedo, the Camino del Salvador takes us through a pedestrian street, leading to the Plaza de la Catedral, where the Cathedral of Oviedo stands majestically.

Upon arrival, we are greeted warmly, and after visiting the Cámara Santa (the holy chamber), we are encouraged to explore the city's rich history. Oviedo is the starting point of the Camino Primitivo, a longer but less difficult route. Now it is time to enjoy and discover Oviedo. Soon we will be ready to continue our pilgrimage to the final destination, Santiago de Compostela.

Oviedo, the capital of Asturias in northern Spain, is a city rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. The Camino Primitivo begins in Oviedo at the Catedral de San Salvador, a key landmark in the city and a significant point for pilgrims. In addition, there are several must-see attractions to explore.

Start with Oviedo's Old Town, a charming area filled with narrow streets, medieval architecture, and historical sites. Key places include the Catedral de San Salvador, a magnificent Gothic cathedral that houses important religious relics, and the Plaza del Fontán, a picturesque square lined with traditional houses and vibrant markets. We can also visit the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias, which showcases an impressive collection of fine art, including works by Spanish masters like Goya and El Greco.

Another highlight of Oviedo is its Pre-Romanesque Churches, such as Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, located on the slopes of Mount Naranco. These UNESCO-listed sites, built in the 9th century, are among the best examples of early medieval architecture in Spain.

Finally, we cannot miss the food scene. Oviedo is known for its sidra (Asturian cider), which we can sample in one of the many cider bars. Try some traditional dishes like fabada asturiana (a rich bean stew) or cachopo (breaded veal steak).

Whether we are walking through its historical streets, exploring ancient churches, or enjoying the natural beauty, Oviedo offers a delightful mix of experiences for us.

Indeed do not forget to ask for your Salvadorana certificate at the Cathedral of San Salvador!