CN ROUTE 1. San Sebastián (Donostia) to Bilbao

The stretch of the Camino del Norte from Donostia-San Sebastián to Getaria is a particularly scenic and enjoyable section of the pilgrimage route. This part of the journey takes us through coastal landscapes, charming Basque villages, and stunning natural vistas, making it one of the most picturesque legs of the entire Camino.

Starting from Donostia, the path quickly leads out of the city and onto a more rural landscape. The first part of the journey follows the Bay of Biscay, offering us spectacular views of the rugged coastline and the deep blue sea. As we leave behind the urban sprawl of San Sebastián, we head into the green hills of the Basque countryside, where rolling fields and dense forests surround the route.

Along the route, we pass through small seaside villages like Zarautz, known for its long sandy beach and relaxed atmosphere. Zarautz is a popular spot for surfers, and its promenade along the beach offers a pleasant place to rest and take in the coastal views. From Zarautz, the Camino del Norte continues along the cliffs, with some of the best panoramic views of the coastline and the occasional sight of fishermen’s boats in the distance. The area is known for its lush, green hills, and the walk offers a peaceful break from the more urbanized sections of the Camino.

Further along the route, we will approach Getaria, a charming coastal town famous for its picturesque old quarter and its association with the Basque seafaring tradition. The town is known for its well-preserved medieval architecture, particularly the Church of San Salvador, a stunning Gothic-style church that stands proudly in the town’s historic center. The church, built in the 15th century, is known for its impressive architecture and beautiful interior, including a remarkable altarpiece. It is also the burial site of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the famous navigator who completed the first circumnavigation of the globe in 1522.

The town itself is known for its picturesque old quarter, with narrow cobbled streets and traditional Basque houses. The winding alleys are lined with small shops, cafes, and seafood restaurants, where visitors can enjoy delicious local specialties, such as txangurro (spider crab), and local wine, especially txakolí, a slightly sparkling white wine that pairs beautifully with the region’s dishes. We can take time to relax and enjoy the local cuisine, which is a highlight of any visit to this part of the Basque Country.

The section from Getaria to Deba is a relatively short but scenic stretch of the pilgrimage route. Starting from Getaria, we leave the coastal town behind and begin a steady ascent as we move inland. The route quickly transitions into a more rural landscape, with undulating hills, green pastures, and pine forests, typical of the Basque countryside. The path can be slightly challenging due to some steep inclines, but the reward is the stunning panoramic views of the Bay of Biscay and the surrounding hills.

Along the way, we will encounter a mix of coastal and inland scenery. The cliffs and hills offer breathtaking views of the ocean, while small villages like Zumaia are lovely places to stop and enjoy the local atmosphere. Zumaia, located just before Deba, is known for its striking geological formations called the Flysch cliffs, which are made up of layers of rock that have been shaped over millions of years. The cliffs are one of the natural highlights of this section of the Camino and a perfect spot for photography or a brief break.

As we continue toward Deba, the path moves through lush forests and farmland, with fields of crops and occasional glimpses of the rugged coastline. The walk is also dotted with small chapels and traditional Basque farmhouses, adding to the authentic rural charm of the region.

Deba itself is a coastal town with a rich maritime history, situated at the mouth of the Deba River. It is known for its sandy beaches and its old town, where we can enjoy a stroll through narrow streets and discover a number of historical buildings. One of the most prominent landmarks in Deba is the Church of Santa María, an impressive Gothic structure that is worth visiting for its beautiful architecture and tranquil atmosphere.

Deba also has a lively port, where we can find fresh seafood and enjoy a meal in one of the town's seafood restaurants, which are a hallmark of the region’s culinary tradition. The town is also an excellent base for exploring the surrounding natural areas, with walking paths along the cliffs and beaches, offering spectacular views of the sea.

The stretch from Deba to Markina-Xemein offers us a blend of lush landscapes, rural Basque villages, and a more serene atmosphere compared to the coastal parts of the Camino. This portion of the route takes us through some of the most picturesque and tranquil areas of the Basque countryside, with rolling hills, forests, and farmland all around.

The journey begins in Deba, a charming coastal town, and heads inland, leaving the coastal views behind as we move deeper into the Basque interior. As we start our walk, we will leave the town behind and ascend through the lush countryside. The first part of the journey is a bit of a climb, but it rewards us with wonderful views of the surrounding hills and valleys.

The route between Deba and Markina-Xemein is marked by green pastures, forests, and rolling hills, typical of the Basque countryside. As we walk, we will pass through forests of oak and pine trees, with occasional breaks in the foliage offering expansive views of the hills and valleys below. The tranquility of this section of the Camino is one of its highlights, allowing us to experience a more peaceful, introspective leg of the journey. This portion of the walk can feel remote, with fewer towns or villages along the way, making it a more solitary experience.

While the route is relatively quiet, there are still occasional signs of rural life, such as small Basque farmhouses (known as caseríos) dotting the landscape. These traditional homes are a reminder of the region's agricultural heritage, and they blend harmoniously with the natural surroundings.

After a steady walk through the Basque countryside, we will finally reach Markina-Xemein, a larger town located in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve. Markina-Xemein is known for its rich historical and cultural heritage, and it offers us a chance to rest and explore the heart of the Biscayan Basque Country.

One of the key highlights in Markina-Xemein is the Church of Santa María de la Asunción, known for its architectural beauty, features elements of Gothic and Baroque styles, reflecting its long history and cultural significance. The church's interior boasts impressive artwork, including intricate altarpieces and stained glass windows, which highlight its religious importance.

The town also features several traditional Basque houses, narrow streets, and plazas, which contribute to its charming atmosphere. We can enjoy walking through the town, appreciating the Basque rural culture and experiencing the hospitality of the locals.

The stretch from Markina-Xemein to Gernika takes us inland, leaving behind the coastal scenery and venturing into the heart of the Basque countryside, where rolling hills, lush forests, and traditional farmhouses dominate the landscape.

Starting from Markina-Xemein, a town rich in Basque heritage, we begin the walk through rural terrain, with a gradual ascent that leads them into the surrounding hills. As we leave Markina-Xemein, the Camino quickly transitions into peaceful countryside. The first part of the journey is characterized by lush green fields, forests of oak and pine, and the occasional glimpse of a traditional Basque farmhouse or caserío. The peaceful nature of this stretch offers a quiet and contemplative atmosphere, ideal for us seeking a moment of solitude.

The path from Markina-Xemein to Gernika is dotted with small villages and scattered farmsteads. The terrain is varied, with moderate ascents and descents, but nothing overly strenuous. The green hills and farmland provide a peaceful backdrop as we walk, with occasional views of the nearby Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve in the distance.

In addition to the natural beauty, there are also several small chapels along the way where we can stop to rest or reflect.

After several kilometers of walking through the Basque countryside, we will arrive in Gernika (or Guernica), one of the most historically significant towns in the Basque Country. Gernika is best known for the tragic bombing it suffered during the Spanish Civil War in 1937, which was immortalized in Pablo Picasso’s famous painting "Guernica." Today, Gernika is a peaceful town, but its history is an integral part of its identity.

One of the most iconic symbols of Gernika is the Gernika Tree (El Árbol de Gernika), a historic oak tree that represents Basque autonomy and the heart of the Basque Parliament. The tree is located near the Casa de Juntas, the historic building where the Basque Parliament met for centuries.

Another significant landmark in Gernika is the Church of Santa María, a Gothic-style church with a history dating back to the 14th century. It is a quiet and reflective place to visit, offering us a moment of peace after our long walk.

The town is also a hub for Basque culture, with vibrant local festivals, traditional Basque architecture, and a lively town center. We can stroll through the old town’s narrow streets, visit local shops, or relax in the town’s plazas. The Gernika Market is another highlight, where we can sample local produce, including fresh cheeses, cured meats, and other Basque specialties.

In order to get stronger, we should taste Gernika’s culinary traditions, with several restaurants offering Basque dishes such as txangurro (spider crab) and merluza (hake), paired with local wines like txakolí, a crisp, slightly sparkling Basque white wine.

The stretch from Gernika to Lezama takes us through the rolling hills and scenic landscapes of the Basque Country, offering a mix of coastal views, rural serenity, and historical towns.

From Gernika, the Camino del Norte heads inland, moving through lush forests, small villages, and farmland, offering a quiet and peaceful atmosphere away from the bustling urban centers.

The trail itself is well-marked, and though it can be hilly, it is not overly challenging. The Camino follows local paths and minor roads, winding through hills covered in greenery and offering a chance to enjoy the natural beauty of the region. The route to Lezama then leads through more rural landscapes, with views of the surrounding countryside and glimpses of the distant mountains.

As we approach Lezama, the final destination for this segment, we enter a more urbanized area, with residential buildings and modern amenities. Lezama is a smaller village that serves as a quiet stop on the Camino. It is home to a few historical landmarks, such as the Church of Santa María, built in a Baroque style, with some Gothic influences that dates back to the 12th century, though it has undergone various renovations and restorations over the centuries. This church, located in the heart of the village, is a fine example of traditional Basque architecture and offers both historical and cultural insights into the region.

Lezama’s local cuisine is a highlight for visitors. We can enjoy traditional Basque dishes in local restaurants, including the region's famous pintxos (tapas) and hearty stews, as well as fresh fish and seafood from the nearby coast.

Lezama provides an opportunity to experience the authentic atmosphere of a small Basque town, complete with local traditions, cuisine, and hospitality.

As we leave Lezama, we are greeted by the peaceful beauty of the Basque countryside. The route takes us through lush green fields, rolling hills, and wooded areas, offering a true sense of rural tranquility. Along the way, we pass through small villages and enjoy the serene landscapes that are typical of the Basque region. This stretch of the Camino offers a calm and reflective experience before the urban environment of Bilbao begins to take shape.

As we approach Bilbao, the landscape gradually shifts from the countryside to more urbanized areas. The city’s skyline becomes visible in the distance, and the quiet rural paths start to give way to roads and suburban areas. The contrast between the peaceful rural setting and the dynamic energy of Bilbao provides a unique experience as we approach one of Spain’s most culturally rich cities.

Upon reaching Bilbao, we are rewarded with the opportunity to explore its many attractions. The city is famous for its stunning Guggenheim Museum, a masterpiece of modern architecture, as well as its charming Casco Antiguo (Old Town), where we can wander through narrow streets filled with history. Bilbao also boasts a lively food scene, where we can sample traditional Basque pintxos and enjoy a lively atmosphere along the Ría de Bilbao (Bilbao’s river). The city offers a fascinating blend of contemporary culture and traditional Basque heritage, making it a rewarding destination after the day’s walk.

After completing our pilgrimage, and if we have enough time, we can discover Bilbao, the largest city in the Basque Country. It offers a rich blend of modernity, history, and culture, making it a must-visit destination. One of the most iconic attractions is the Guggenheim Museum, a masterpiece of contemporary architecture designed by Frank Gehry. The museum’s distinctive, organic-shaped building is as impressive as the art it houses, which spans from modern to contemporary works. Surrounding the museum is a revitalized area with beautiful riverside promenades, sculptures, and parks, adding to the city's vibrant atmosphere.

For those interested in the city's history and Basque culture, the Casco Antiguo (Old Town) is a charming maze of narrow streets, picturesque squares, and historical landmarks. Here, we can explore the Plaza Nueva, a neoclassical square filled with cafes and bars where locals gather. The Santiago Cathedral (do not confuse it with Santiago de Compostela), a Gothic structure, and the Mercado de la Ribera, one of the largest covered markets in Europe, are also key highlights in the old town. The market offers an authentic taste of Basque culinary traditions, with fresh local produce and artisanal goods.

Another significant spot in Bilbao is the Museo de Bellas Artes, which houses an impressive collection of European art, including works by El Greco, Goya, and Picasso. For nature lovers, the Doña Casilda Iturrizar park provides a peaceful green space with beautiful gardens and a lake, offering a break from the urban hustle.

Lastly, Bilbao's Abandoibarra district is a perfect example of how the city blends the old and the new. This area, once industrial, has been transformed into a hub for culture and leisure, featuring cutting-edge architecture, open-air spaces, and great views of the city’s skyline. Walking along the Nervión River, we can enjoy the city from a unique perspective.

Bilbao offers a perfect mix of art, history, nature, and modernity, making it an exceptional destination.

Congratulations! We have completed this first part of the Camino del Norte. We still have to reach our destination, Santiago de Compostela.