CSan ROUTE 2. Ourense to Santiago

The journey from Ourense to Cea marks the first section of the Camino Sanabrés, a beautiful and quiet stretch of the Vía de la Plata. After leaving the Ourense behind, the route gradually leads us into the rural landscapes of Galicia. The trail is dotted with eucalyptus and oak trees, and we will cross several small rivers and streams along the way, providing a peaceful atmosphere.

As we approach Cea, the landscape becomes even more picturesque, with the rolling hills and small farms providing a true picture of rural Galician life.

Upon arriving in Cea, we are welcomed by its famous bread, which has been produced in the region for centuries. The village is home to several bakeries, and it is a great place to enjoy a slice of pan de Cea, a traditional local bread known for its distinct flavor and texture. Cea is a perfect place to rest and enjoy the peaceful surroundings before continuing the next leg of our journey.

Leaving Cea, we have two main options: the direct route to Dozón or the more rewarding detour via the Monastery of Oseira. We highly recommend the latter, despite its increased length and difficulty, due to the monastery’s historical and spiritual significance. The route winds through rural landscapes, dense forests, and quiet valleys, offering a peaceful and contemplative walking experience.

The Monastery of Oseira, often referred to as the “Galician Escorial,” is a Cistercian abbey founded in the 12th century. Nestled in a secluded valley, the monastery impresses with its Romanesque and Baroque architecture, large cloisters, and peaceful atmosphere.

As we continue, the trail becomes a bit more challenging, with a steady climb toward the village of Dozón, a location known for its beautiful mountain scenery.

Upon arriving in Dozón, we are greeted by the peaceful ambiance of this charming village. The town is known for its hospitality, with local bars where we can relax and enjoy some traditional Galician food. The local landscape surrounding Dozón is mountainous, with views of the distant peaks of the Serra do Suído, which adds to the allure of the area.

Leaving Dozón, the route immediately starts with some gentle climbs, heading towards the Serra do Suído mountains. As we walk, we will pass through forests and farmland, with occasional views of the surrounding mountains. We will notice the typical Galician stone houses and green pastures that give this area its unique character.

As we approach Silleda, the terrain becomes a bit easier, with the path descending toward the valley where the town is located. The final approach into Silleda is through lush farmland, and we may start to notice the changes in the landscape, with more signs of agricultural life. The area is known for its crops and livestock, and the views of green hills and fields create a peaceful atmosphere.

Upon reaching Silleda, we will find a town that is a bit larger than previous stops. It has cafés and restaurants where we can rest and enjoy a traditional Galician meal. Silleda is also famous for its gastronomy, particularly the cocido, a traditional Galician stew made with meats and vegetables, perfect for replenishing our energy after a day of walking.

Leaving Silleda, the path begins with a steady climb through the lush Galician countryside. The early part of the route takes us through small hamlets and agricultural land, with fields of maize, vineyards, and orchards. The quietude of this part of the route allows us to enjoy the serenity of the Galician woodlands, with birdsong and rustling leaves providing a peaceful soundtrack to our journey.

The last few kilometers to Ponte Ulla are mostly downhill, making for a more relaxed walk compared to the earlier climbs. The route follows country roads and dirt paths, offering views of meadows and pastures as we approach the village.

Ponte Ulla is a small but significant town known for its Roman bridge, which spans the Ulla River. This historical landmark is a key feature of the area and marks the point where we cross over the river to continue our journey toward Santiago. The town is a good place to take a break and enjoy the local hospitality, with a few cafés and bars offering a chance to rest and enjoy a meal.

After a long day of walking, it is a perfect place to relax before tackling the next stage of the Camino. With its combination of natural beauty, historical significance, and welcoming atmosphere, this stage of the Camino Sanabrés provides a memorable and enriching experience.

The final stage from Ponte Ulla to Santiago de Compostela marks the emotional and spiritual culmination of the pilgrimage. This section blends natural beauty with a growing sense of anticipation as pilgrims approach the long-awaited goal: the Cathedral of Santiago.

Leaving Ponte Ulla, the route begins with a steady climb through forests and rural paths. The effort is rewarded with scenic views of the surrounding valleys and woodlands. The landscape is distinctly Galician—lush, green, and peaceful. Oak and eucalyptus trees line much of the trail, and we will pass farmlands and old stone houses typical of the region.

As we get closer to Santiago, the route becomes more suburban. The final approach includes paved roads and crossings, leading us into the outskirts of the city. Many pilgrims pause at Monte do Gozo (Mount of Joy), although it is not directly on the Sanabrés route—it is a detour from other Caminos—but the feeling of excitement is shared by all, knowing the destination is near.

Entering Santiago de Compostela, the energy shifts dramatically. The streets fill with pilgrims from different routes, all converging on the city’s historic center. The final moments of the Camino lead us through narrow cobbled streets toward the awe-inspiring Cathedral of Santiago.

Santiago de Compostela, the final destination of the Camino Sanabrés, is a city steeped in history, culture, and spirituality. Known for its beautiful medieval architecture, vibrant atmosphere, and deep religious significance, it attracts pilgrims and tourists from around the world. It is highly recommended to spend one day here, at least, to discover this charming old town.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the heart of the city and the focal point of the pilgrimage. This stunning Romanesque cathedral, with its awe-inspiring façade and intricate sculptures, is one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in Christianity. Pilgrims who have completed the Camino de Santiago often make their way to the cathedral to visit the tomb of Saint James, which is located in the crypt beneath the altar. The cathedral’s Portico de la Gloria, a masterpiece of medieval sculpture by Master Mateo, is a highlight. Inside, the soaring nave, the impressive Botafumeiro (a giant incense burner that swings during special occasions), and the intricate chapels offer a truly mesmerizing experience. It is a place of deep spiritual significance, but also a stunning architectural marvel.

The Plaza del Obradoiro is the grand square in front of the cathedral and one of the most iconic locations in Santiago de Compostela. This large square is framed by historic buildings, including the Pazo de Raxoi (a neoclassical palace that now serves as the town hall), the Colegio de San Xerome (which houses the University of Santiago), and the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (a former royal hospital, now a luxury hotel). The plaza is often filled with pilgrims, tourists, and locals, creating a lively yet reflective atmosphere.

Santiago's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with narrow, cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and charming squares. The area is full of historical landmarks, including Plaza de Platerías, where we can admire the Platerías Gate of the cathedral, one of the oldest and most iconic entrances. Wander through the maze of alleys and discover hidden courtyards, quaint cafés, artisan shops, and traditional tapas bars. The Old Town is perfect for leisurely exploration, with its historical ambiance providing a glimpse into the city’s past as a major center for pilgrimage and learning.

For food lovers, the Mercado de Abastos is a must-see. Located just a short walk from the cathedral, this bustling market is one of the best places in Santiago to experience the region's culinary delights. Offering fresh produce, meats, seafood, cheeses, and Galician specialties like pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus), the market is a food lover’s paradise. It is also home to a variety of stalls where we can sample tapas or enjoy a meal at one of the market’s restaurants. The market’s lively atmosphere and abundance of local flavors make it a great place to experience the essence of Galician cuisine.