CPri ROUTE 2. Lugo to Santiago

The path from Lugo to Burgo Negral is relatively easy to follow. While the terrain is mostly rural and not overly challenging, there are some gentle ascents and descents, especially as we approach the small town of Burgo Negral. The path is often shaded by trees, offering relief from the sun, and the natural surroundings provide a soothing atmosphere throughout the journey. There are several small streams and rivers along the way, which contribute to the area's peaceful ambiance.

As we approach Burgo Negral, the route gradually leads into this small settlement, which is the endpoint of this stage. The Parish Church of Santa María is the main religious site in the town. This simple yet beautiful church reflects the traditional Galician architectural style. It is an important local landmark and often visited by pilgrims for a moment of reflection. Although it may not be as grand as some larger churches, it offers a sense of history and local devotion.

Burgo Negral is a peaceful town, offering a few basic services for us, including places to rest and eat. While it is a quieter town, it offers a warm and welcoming atmosphere for us before we continue our journey.

The Camino Primitivo from Burgo Negral to Melide connects the quiet countryside of Lugo with the more bustling town of Melide, making it an essential part of the journey.

As we leave Burgo Negral, the Camino Primitivo quickly transitions from the village’s quiet streets to open fields, pastures, and forested paths. The early part of this stage is characterized by a rural landscape typical of Galicia’s interior. We will walk along narrow country roads, passing by small farmhouses and peaceful meadows, offering an authentic experience of rural life in the region.

As we walk, the landscape alternates between farmland, wooded areas, and scattered hamlets. The lush greenery of the Galician countryside is ever-present, and the trail is often shaded by trees, providing some relief from the sun. The sound of rustling leaves and distant birdsong adds to the peaceful ambiance, making this stretch ideal for reflection and enjoying the natural surroundings.

As we near Melide, the environment becomes a bit more urbanized, with the countryside slowly giving way to the outskirts of the town. Melide is a larger settlement and serves as an important stop on the Camino Primitivo, as it is located at the junction where the Primitivo meets the Camino Francés. This makes it a bustling hub for pilgrims from both routes.

The town is home to some historical buildings and landmarks, including the Church of Santa María that dates back to the 13th century and it is an example of the Romanesque style, with a simple yet beautiful interior. The church is located in the town center and is an important stop, providing a quiet space for reflection. Its modest yet striking architecture reflects the rich history of the town and the region.

The Plaza do Convento is a charming square in the center of Melide. Surrounded by traditional stone buildings, the square is a lovely spot to relax and soak in the atmosphere of the town. We will often find pilgrims resting here or enjoying a coffee at one of the cafes that line the square. The square is also home to the Convento Sancti Spiritus, a former Franciscan convent, adding to the historical significance of the area.

Melide is famous for its vibrant atmosphere, as it has a variety of accommodations, bars, restaurants, and other services for us. It is known for its octopus (pulpo a la gallega), a traditional Galician dish, and is a great place to stop and enjoy a hearty meal after the walk.

The journey from Melide begins by leaving behind the town's lively atmosphere, with its bustling pilgrim traffic, and heading into the quieter, more rural parts of Galicia. After passing through the town, we quickly find ourselves walking along peaceful paths lined with trees and fields. The countryside here is typical of the region, with rolling hills, pastureland, and small stone farmhouses dotting the landscape.

There are also several small chapels and wayside crosses along the route, marking the path of the Camino and offering opportunities for a brief pause.

As we approach Arzúa, the landscape begins to shift, with the terrain becoming a bit more settled as the town draws nearer. Arzúa is a larger town than Melide and serves as an important stop on the Camino, with a range of services for pilgrims, including restaurants, and shops. The town is known for its Arzúa-Ulloa cheese, a creamy and delicious local product that we should sample during our stop.

Arzúa is a typical Galician town, with charming narrow streets, a main square, and historic buildings, including the Church of Santa María. This simple yet beautiful church is located in the heart of the town and dates back to the 14th century. The church is in the Gothic style and features a stunning façade with intricate details.

As Arzúa is an important stop along the Camino routes, we will find several Camino monuments scattered throughout the town. One notable monument is the Pilgrim’s Statue, which stands as a tribute to those who walk the Camino. These markers and sculptures add to the spiritual and historical atmosphere of the town, reminding us of the significance of our journey.

In addition, Arzúa has a lively Plaza de Abastos (local market) where we can experience a taste of local life. The market is a great place to buy fresh produce, meats, fish, and cheeses, as well as handicrafts. The square itself is a hub of activity, with vendors selling everything from traditional Galician foods to regional crafts.

Although relatively small, Arzúa offers a wealth of experiences for us walking the Camino Primitivo.

The Camino Primitivo from Arzúa to Pedrouzo (also known as O Pino) is a relatively short but scenic part of the pilgrimage. This stage is marked by gentle ascents and descents, tranquil countryside, and small rural villages, providing us with a quiet and reflective walk through the beautiful Galician landscape.

We begin the journey from Arzúa. Leaving behind the town, the path takes us through rural Galicia, with fields, forests, and quiet country roads guiding the way. The route immediately immerses us in the peaceful surroundings of the region, away from the noise of larger towns. The early stages of the walk are characterized by lush greenery and the typical Galician landscape of rolling hills and scattered farmhouses.

As we continue along the Camino, we will be surrounded by the natural beauty of Galicia's countryside. The landscape is lush and verdant, with dense forests of oak and eucalyptus trees offering cool shade along the way. The air is fresh, and the sounds of birds and rustling leaves provide a peaceful soundtrack for the journey. Streams and small rivers crisscross the landscape, adding to the serene and tranquil environment. This section of the route is a wonderful opportunity for us to connect with nature and reflect on our journey as we get closer to Santiago.

As we get closer to Pedrouzo (O Pino), the surroundings become slightly more populated, and the landscape shifts to more agricultural land, with farmlands and orchards stretching across the horizon. Pedrouzo itself is a small village located at the edge of a forest, offering a welcome rest stop for us. Pedrouzo is often considered a major staging point for pilgrims, as it marks the last significant stop before reaching Santiago de Compostela.

One of the highlights of Pedrouzo is the Church of Santa Eulalia de Arca, a modest but beautiful structure that serves both as a place of worship and a symbol of the town’s long history. The church, with its simple yet elegant design, is an excellent example of the Galician Romanesque style.

Pedrouzo has a range of restaurants, and bars, making it a comfortable and convenient place to rest before the final stretch of the Camino. We can enjoy a warm meal, rest and prepare for the last leg of the pilgrimage to Santiago. The atmosphere in Pedrouzo is relaxed, and many pilgrims gather here to share stories, reflect on their experiences, and get ready for the arrival at Santiago.

The stretch from Pedrouzo (O Pino) to Santiago de Compostela is the final leg of this route, offering us a scenic and relatively challenging journey into the heart of Galicia, filled with rolling hills, small hamlets, and ancient forests.

After leaving Pedrouzo, the trail heads through a mix of rural landscapes, including forests and agricultural land. The route often winds through small villages and hamlets, giving walkers a taste of the traditional Galician countryside. The landscape is dotted with typical stone houses, barns, and ancient chapels, evoking a sense of timelessness. As we move closer to Santiago, the scenery becomes more urban, transitioning from peaceful farmland to the more industrial outskirts of the city.

One of the most striking parts of the journey is the approach to Santiago, particularly as we begin to see the spires of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela rising in the distance. Along the way, the Camino Primitivo also passes through notable landmarks such as the Monte do Gozo, a hill offering the first clear view of Santiago's cathedral and a traditional spot for pilgrims to stop and celebrate their nearing arrival. Here, many take a moment to rest and reflect on the long journey they have undertaken.

In Santiago, we are welcomed with a sense of triumph and community. The city offers a rich history, including the stunning Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, where we can attend the traditional "pilgrim's mass" and reflect on our journey. After completing the Camino Primitivo, we receive our Compostela, the certificate of completion, marking the end of a significant and meaningful pilgrimage. We have reached our destination!

After completing our pilgrimage, we have the reward of enjoying one of the most beautiful cities in the whole world.

Santiago de Compostela, the final destination of the Camino de Santiago, is a city steeped in history, culture, and spirituality. Known for its beautiful medieval architecture, vibrant atmosphere, and deep religious significance, it attracts pilgrims and tourists from around the world. It is highly recommended to spend one day here, at least, to discover this charming old town.

The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela is the heart of the city and the focal point of the pilgrimage. This stunning Romanesque cathedral, with its awe-inspiring façade and intricate sculptures, is one of the most significant pilgrimage sites in Christianity. Pilgrims who have completed the Camino de Santiago often make their way to the cathedral to visit the tomb of Saint James, which is located in the crypt beneath the altar. The cathedral’s Portico de la Gloria, a masterpiece of medieval sculpture by Master Mateo, is a highlight. Inside, the soaring nave, the impressive Botafumeiro (a giant incense burner that swings during special occasions), and the intricate chapels offer a truly mesmerizing experience. It is a place of deep spiritual significance, but also a stunning architectural marvel.

The Plaza del Obradoiro is the grand square in front of the cathedral and one of the most iconic locations in Santiago de Compostela. This large square is framed by historic buildings, including the Pazo de Raxoi (a neoclassical palace that now serves as the town hall), the Colegio de San Xerome (which houses the University of Santiago), and the Hostal de los Reyes Católicos (a former royal hospital, now a luxury hotel). The plaza is often filled with pilgrims, tourists, and locals, creating a lively yet reflective atmosphere.

Santiago's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with narrow, cobblestone streets, medieval buildings, and charming squares. The area is full of historical landmarks, including Plaza de Platerías, where we can admire the Platerías Gate of the cathedral, one of the oldest and most iconic entrances. Wander through the maze of alleys and discover hidden courtyards, quaint cafés, artisan shops, and traditional tapas bars. The Old Town is perfect for leisurely exploration, with its historical ambiance providing a glimpse into the city’s past as a major center for pilgrimage and learning.

For food lovers, the Mercado de Abastos is a must-see. Located just a short walk from the cathedral, this bustling market is one of the best places in Santiago to experience the region's culinary delights. Offering fresh produce, meats, seafood, cheeses, and Galician specialties like pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus), the market is a food lover’s paradise. It is also home to a variety of stalls where we can sample tapas or enjoy a meal at one of the market’s restaurants. The market’s lively atmosphere and abundance of local flavors make it a great place to experience the essence of Galician cuisine.