VPod ROUTE 2. Aumont-Aubrac to Conques

The stage from Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals offers us a journey through the breathtaking landscapes of the Aubrac Plateau, a region known for its wide-open spaces, rolling hills, and traditional stone huts.

As we leave Aumont-Aubrac, the path begins with an ascent into the heart of the plateau. The route is peaceful and quiet, with panoramic views of the vast grassy fields and gentle slopes stretching as far as the eye can see. The landscape is dotted with buronnières, small stone huts once used by shepherds during the summer months to make cheese from the milk of their herds.

The path is mostly flat or gently undulating, making it an easy and relaxing walk compared to some of the more challenging stages of the Camino. However, the weather on the plateau can be unpredictable, so we should be prepared for sudden changes in conditions, particularly in the colder months. The route is well-marked and easy to follow, passing through vast meadows where Aubrac cows graze peacefully, adding to the rural beauty of the area.

As we approach Nasbinals, the scenery starts to change as they descend toward the village. Nasbinals is a small but welcoming village, providing us with the perfect opportunity to rest. Known for its rustic charm, the village is home to a few shops and cafés, making it a great place to relax and prepare for the next stage of the journey.

The stage from Nasbinals to Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac is a beautiful section of the Le Puy route in France. This part of the journey offers us a mix of stunning landscapes, historical sites, and a peaceful atmosphere, making it one of the more serene and reflective stretches of the pilgrimage.

The route begins in Nasbinals, a small village located at the heart of the Aubrac Plateau, known for its vast, open landscapes and distinctive stone architecture. From here, the path leads us through gently rolling hills, vast meadows, and forests, with the occasional traditional farm or isolated stone house along the way. The plateau’s scenery is particularly striking, especially in the spring and summer months when the wildflowers bloom, and the green hills stretch out as far as the eye can see.

As we walk, we will encounter traditional Aubrac cattle, a breed known for its resilience in the harsh conditions of the region. These cows, often seen grazing in the meadows, are an iconic part of the area’s agricultural heritage. The terrain is mostly rural, and although it’s relatively flat compared to other parts of the Camino, there are still a few inclines and rough patches that keep the walk interesting.

One of the highlights of the stage is the village of Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac, where we can take a break and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. The village is known for its beautiful Romanesque church, which has a long history as a place of pilgrimage. 

Additionally, the village is a good place to sample local specialties. Aubrac cheese, often served with fresh bread, and aligot, a creamy mashed potato dish made with cheese and garlic, are local culinary delights. Many small cafés and restaurants in the village offer these traditional foods, providing a true taste of the region.

This part of the journey from Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac to Espalion takes us through a series of varied landscapes, from high plateaus to deep valleys, providing a dynamic and scenic experience.

After leaving Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac, the path takes us across the wide, open spaces of the Aubrac Plateau, with its characteristic grassy fields, forests, and the famous Aubrac cows that dot the landscape. The plateau itself is one of the most iconic regions in southern France, known for its tranquil and remote beauty. The rolling hills, quiet rivers, and occasional stone farmhouses create a sense of solitude.

As the journey progresses, the terrain gradually descends toward the Lot River valley, where the environment changes dramatically. We will find ourselves walking through lush forests, pastures, and small villages. The descent is gradual but noticeable, as the higher plateaus give way to the deep green of the valley below. The landscape here feels more cultivated, with terraced fields and small orchards dotting the hillside.

The route also offers some spectacular views as it winds down toward the town of Espalion, which sits on the banks of the Lot River. Espalion is a picturesque and historic town that has been an important stop on the Camino for centuries. The town itself is full of medieval charm, with narrow streets, cobblestone paths, and traditional stone buildings. We entering Espalion will cross the famous Pont Vieux, an ancient bridge that spans the Lot River and serves as a symbol of the town. The bridge, dating back to the 11th century, has been a crossing point for travelers and pilgrims for generations.

Upon reaching Espalion, we can take a well-earned rest in this welcoming town, which has several accommodations, cafés, and shops catering to the needs of walkers. Espalion is also home to several historical landmarks, including the Church of Saint-Hilarian-Sainte-Foy de Perse. 

The Château de Calmont d'Olt, perched high above the town, offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding valley and river, while its medieval architecture transports visitors back in time to the era of knights and feudal lords.

The town is also known for its vibrant local culture, and we will have the opportunity to enjoy traditional Aubrac cuisine, which includes dishes like aligot (mashed potatoes with cheese and garlic) and locally produced cheeses.

The stage from Espalion to Golinhac is another captivating stretch of the Via Podiensis, taking us through varied landscapes that showcase both natural beauty and historical significance.

The route begins as we depart from the picturesque town of Espalion, crossing the iconic Pont Vieux (the Old Bridge) and following the path along the banks of the Lot River for a short while. The early part of the walk is relatively flat, but as we move away from the river, the terrain gradually begins to climb. The path soon begins to wind upwards through forests and small hamlets, giving us a chance to experience the rustic charm of the Aveyron region.

As we ascend from the valley, the views become increasingly spectacular, with the landscape opening up to reveal rolling hills, meadows, and the distant peaks of the surrounding mountains. The surrounding countryside is often dotted with traditional stone farmhouses, and the distant horizon presents the kind of serene landscape that is characteristic of rural southern France.

One of the highlights of this stage is Golinhac, a small, peaceful village perched at the edge of the Lot River Valley, providing stunning views of the surrounding hills and valleys. The village itself is built in the traditional stone style of the region, with narrow, cobbled streets and charming stone houses that seem almost frozen in time. Golinhac has a rich history and is known for its Romanesque Church of Saint Martin (Église Saint Martin), a beautiful example of religious architecture.

Here we can sample regional specialties, such as hearty dishes made from Aubrac beef and traditional aligot. The village is also a great place to try some locally made cheeses or freshly baked bread.

The stage between Golinhac and Conques is particularly stunning, offering a deep connection to nature, history, and spiritual tradition. This part of the route takes us through a landscape of rolling hills, wooded areas, and quiet villages.

The journey begins in Golinhac, a small, peaceful village that serves as a quiet starting point for the trek toward Conques. As we leave the village, the path winds through open fields and lush forests, offering glimpses of the surrounding valley below. The terrain can be varied, with some stretches being slightly challenging, but the views make the effort worthwhile.

As we approach Conques, the landscape becomes even more dramatic. The Via Podiensis leads us through a valley where the views become more expansive, with the steep hills and valleys providing a sense of the isolated and spiritual nature of the route. Conques itself, an UNESCO-listed village, marks an important stop for us. Its Abbey of Sainte-Foy has been a destination for centuries, as it housed the relics of Saint Foy, a young martyr whose remains drew pilgrims to the town during the medieval period.

Conques, a charming medieval village nestled in the Aveyron department of southern France, is a destination rich in history, architecture, and natural beauty. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Conques offers us a rare glimpse into the past, with its cobbled streets, historic buildings, and breathtaking views. Here’s a look at the key sights and experiences that we shouldn’t miss when visiting this picturesque village.

At the heart of Conques stands the Abbey of Sainte-Foy, one of the most remarkable Romanesque churches in France. This church, with its stunning architectural design, is a highlight for anyone interested in history or art. The abbey’s tympanum, a detailed stone relief above the entrance, depicts the Last Judgment, offering a striking visual representation of medieval Christian beliefs. Inside, we can admire the church’s elegant stone arches, its serene ambiance, and the relics of Sainte-Foy, a martyr whose bones were believed to have miraculous powers and attracted pilgrims in the Middle Ages. The cloister next to the abbey is another peaceful spot, perfect for reflection or simply soaking in the atmosphere of this sacred space.

Conques is also home to a treasure trove of priceless medieval relics, including intricately crafted gold jewelry, illuminated manuscripts, and religious artifacts. These treasures, housed in a small museum near the abbey, offer a glimpse into the wealth and devotion that flourished in this region during the Middle Ages. Many of these items were once displayed in the abbey, but today they are carefully preserved for visitors to admire and appreciate.

One of the most enchanting aspects of Conques is its winding, narrow streets lined with stone houses dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Walking through these streets feels like stepping back in time, with each corner revealing a new glimpse of the village’s medieval past. The houses, many of which feature slate roofs, contribute to the village’s timeless charm, and the picturesque alleys invite visitors to explore and discover hidden spots along the way.