CFra ROUTE 3. Burgos to León

Starting in the city of Burgos, this first stage takes us through flat terrain with scenic views of the Castilian plains. The route heads out of the city, passing through small villages like Villalbilla and Tardajos, before reaching Hornillos del Camino, a small village with a few basic services for pilgrims. Although it may not be as widely known as larger towns on the Camino, it offers several interesting features that can make a visit worthwhile.

The Church of San Román is a notable historical site in the town. It still holds cultural and architectural value, showcasing typical Spanish rural church design. It is a quiet place for reflection.

Moreover, the village has typical Castilian architecture, with traditional stone buildings, narrow streets, and a rural charm that gives us a glimpse into life along the Camino in centuries past. The local traditions, including the annual fiestas and the hospitality of the villagers, make Hornillos del Camino an authentic experience for anyone passing through.

This stage between Hornillos del Camino and Castrojeriz is set in the rural plains of Castile, where we will pass fields and small farms.

Upon reaching Castrojeriz, we are welcomed into a town rich in history and beauty, offering a mix of medieval landmarks, religious sites, and stunning natural surroundings. It provides a unique opportunity to connect with Spain’s deep cultural heritage while enjoying the serenity of the Castilian landscape. Here are some of the key attractions:

Perched on a hilltop, the ruins of Castrojeriz Castle offer spectacular views of the surrounding landscape and the village below. The castle dates back to the 9th century and was once a strategic stronghold during the medieval period.

We can visit the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista (Church of St. John the Baptist), an impressive Gothic-style church that is one of Castrojeriz's architectural highlights. Built in the 14th century, it is known for its beautiful facade, tall, pointed arches, and intricate stonework.

Another important religious site in Castrojeriz is the Iglesia de Santa María del Manzano, an 11th-century Romanesque church. It is famous for its simple but elegant design and the historical significance it holds for the region. The church is closely linked to the early Christian roots of the Camino de Santiago and often visited by pilgrims.

Castrojeriz’s main square, the Plaza Mayor, is a charming and peaceful place to relax. Surrounded by historic buildings, the square often hosts local events, and it’s a wonderful spot to enjoy the village’s serene ambiance.

Located just outside the village, the Monasterio de San Anton is a ruin of a 14th-century monastery. The monastery’s church and cloisters, though in ruins, are still evocative of its former grandeur.

This stage from Castrojeriz to Frómista is mostly flat and follows a well-marked, traditional route with a few gentle ascents and descents. The landscape is characterized by vast fields of wheat and cereal crops, as well as open, expansive plains, giving us a sense of the rural beauty of northern Spain. The path is peaceful, with a few isolated farmhouses and hamlets along the way.

In the village of Itero de la Vega we will find its picturesque stone bridge over the River Pisuerga.

However, Frómista is a larger town, well-known for its magnificent Church of San Martín, a Romanesque gem that dates back to the 11th century. This church is one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Spain. The town also offers several services, including cafes, restaurants, and pilgrim hostels, making it a great place to relax and reflect after the day’s journey.

Like many towns along the Camino, it also has its own set of curiosities, legends, and traditions that add to its charm and mystique. For instance, near Frómista, there is an ancient stone cross located along the Camino. Local lore says that pilgrims who stop and touch the cross receive divine protection for the remainder of their journey. Some even say that the cross itself has mystical powers, with stories of it providing strength and guidance to weary travelers.

The Camino from Frómista to Carrión de los Condes is one of the more straightforward and pleasant sections of the Camino Francés. After leaving the town, we continue walking through vast, flat plains with wide open fields and agricultural landscapes. The route is well-marked and easy to follow, with the familiar yellow arrows and scallop shells guiding the way. The early part of the walk can feel somewhat isolated, but the peacefulness is part of the charm, offering a reflective atmosphere.

As we continue our walk, the landscape begins to change slightly until reaching Carrión de los Condes, a town steeped in history, once a major center for pilgrims in the Middle Ages. It has a number of significant landmarks, including the Church of Santa María del Camino, which was an important pilgrimage stop during the medieval period. The town also boasts a pilgrim hospital dating back to the 12th century, where travelers were once cared for.

The town is also home to several beautiful churches, including the Iglesia de Santiago and the Monastery of San Zoilo, both of which are rich in history and artwork.

After the path and to gather strength, we can delight with lechazo (roast lamb), migas (bread crumbs with chorizo, garlic and sometimes eggs), caldillo (a traditional soup) and red wines made from Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes. The rich wines pair beautifully with the region's lamb dishes.

The leg from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza is a relatively quiet, rural section of the Camino de Santiago, giving us a chance to experience the vastness of Spain’s central plateau. While the landscape may seem monotonous to some, the peacefulness of the route provides ample time for reflection, and the simplicity of the walk makes it a welcome respite for those who have traveled longer and more challenging stretches of the Camino. The stage is not difficult, but we must be prepared for the unforgiving sun and open terrain, making it essential to stay hydrated and take regular breaks.

By the time we reach Calzadilla de la Cueza, the wide horizons of the Meseta seem to stretch out endlessly. This small village is a typical stop on the Camino and has several albergues (pilgrim hostels), as well as a few places to eat and rest. Although Calzadilla de la Cueza is quiet and has a population of just a few dozen residents, it provides the essentials for us before we continue on our journey.

As a curiosity, the name “Calzadilla” refers to a small road or pathway often used for pilgrimage routes or roads that lead to important places. "Cueza," is thought to derive from the Cueva (cave) or underground features of the area. It's believed that the name could be linked to caves or shelters used by early settlers or pilgrims in the region.

The village itself has a rural charm, with narrow streets lined with traditional houses made of stone and adobe. The town's main square is often a place of social gathering for pilgrims, and the local bar is a common stop for those looking for a meal or to unwind. Many pilgrims also use this as a point to replenish supplies for the next stretch of their journey.

The stage from Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún marks a significant transition from the vast, open Meseta plateau to more varied terrain and historical towns. This section is relatively easy to walk, with mostly flat and straight paths that continue across farmland and rural landscapes.

After departing Calzadilla de la Cueza, we pass through a more dynamic countryside, with small villages and fields of wheat, barley, and sunflowers that are characteristic of this region of Castilla y León. The only sounds, aside from our footsteps, are the rustling of the wind and the occasional calls of birds.

As we continue on our way, we gradually approach Sahagún, one of the larger and more historically significant towns on the Camino. The town is known for its medieval architecture and religious heritage, and there are several important landmarks that pilgrims can visit upon arrival.

One of the most impressive historical buildings in Sahagún is the Church of San Lorenzo, a beautiful example of Romanesque architecture. Its intricate design and historical significance make it a must-see for us visiting the town. Another significant site is the Monastery of San Benito, which dates back to the 12th century.

The stage from Sahagún to Burgo Ranero is considered moderate in difficulty due to its length and the open terrain, but it is not particularly strenuous. We passing through this section will experience the peaceful isolation of the plateau and will find opportunities to reflect on our journey.

Along the way, we will pass through small villages and farmland, offering a rural, picturesque experience that contrasts with the larger towns along the Camino. Depending on the fork we choose, some of the notable stops are Bercianos del Real Camino or Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, a small village located around halfway between Sahagún and El Burgo Ranero. It is a good spot for a break before continuing on toward El Burgo Ranero.

As we near El Burgo Ranero, we will notice a slight change in the landscape, with more cultivated fields and trees appearing in the surroundings. El Burgo Ranero is a small but welcoming village. It has a simple charm and is quiet, offering an opportunity to rest and unwind in the evening. El Burgo Ranero also offers a sense of connection to the land, with its agricultural roots and traditional village life. Enjoy the simplicity of the village, which provides a restful atmosphere after the long stretches across the Meseta.

Although El Burgo Ranero may seem like a modest, quiet village along the Camino, its local legends and agricultural traditions offer a glimpse into the deep spiritual and cultural roots that permeate the Camino. From the Cruz de Santiago and its miraculous story to the continued hospitality offered to pilgrims, the village stands as a reminder of the simple, yet profound connections between the land, the pilgrims, and the journey that continues to draw people from all over the world to the Camino de Santiago.

Starting in Burgo Ranero, the journey begins in a flat, rural landscape dominated by expansive fields of cereal crops and small farming villages. The route heads westward, passing through quiet farmland, with long stretches of dirt tracks and quiet country roads, creating a peaceful atmosphere ideal for reflection and solitude.

As you approach Villamarco, a small village along the way, the trail continues through the flat terrain, marked by occasional streams and small groves of trees. 

After Villamarco, the final stretch leads to Mansilla de las Mulas, a historic town that once served as a key stopping point for pilgrims making their way to Santiago de Compostela. Mansilla has a rich history, with remnants of its medieval wall which dates back to the 12th century, some sections still standing, along with several interesting churches and local monuments.

The town's name, "Mansilla," comes from the Latin word mansio, meaning a resting place or a place where travelers could stop for the night. The term "de las Mulas" refers to the town's historical association with mules, which were traditionally used to transport goods along the Camino.

We can enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the town, which offers a variety of services for pilgrims, including places to rest, eat, and reflect on the journey ahead.

The final stretch from Mansilla de las Mulas to León offers a mix of rural landscapes and urban approaches, leading us from the peaceful countryside into the vibrant, historic heart of León.

As we leave the town behind, we will walk through small rural villages and along well-maintained dirt paths. The last few kilometers are a transition from the rural landscape to the more developed outskirts of the city of León.

One of the highlights of this section is the approach to the Puente de los Leones (Bridge of the Lions), a stone bridge that marks the final point before entering León. The bridge is named after the two lion sculptures that stand at either end, symbolizing the approach to the city. Crossing this bridge is a symbolic moment for many pilgrims, as it marks the transition from the countryside to the urban environment of León, a city rich in history and pilgrim tradition.

Upon entering León, we are greeted by the sight of the Basilica of San Isidoro, one of the most important religious landmarks in the city. The city center itself is a treasure trove of medieval architecture, including the stunning León Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture famous for its stained glass windows. Enjoy its vibrant atmosphere and reflect on the significance of reaching such an important milestone on our journey to Santiago de Compostela.

León is a historic city, rich in culture, architecture, and history. It is a significant stop on the Camino de Santiago and has a variety of landmarks and attractions that reflect its Roman, medieval, and Gothic heritage. If you have enough time to visit the city's historical sites, there’s much to explore and appreciate in this vibrant city.

The León Cathedral is perhaps the most iconic landmark in the city. This stunning example of Gothic architecture is known for its vast collection of stained glass windows, which are considered some of the finest in Europe. The cathedral, built between the 13th and 16th centuries, features soaring spires, intricate stone carvings, and a breathtaking interior.

Another essential site in León is the Basilica of San Isidoro, often regarded as one of the most important Romanesque buildings in Spain. The building's cloister and the nearby Church of San Salvador are also notable for their beauty and historical importance.

León is renowned for its gastronomy, and food lovers will find plenty to explore. Local specialties include cocido leonés (a hearty chickpea stew), morcilla de León (blood sausage), and a wide variety of tapas. The city’s markets, like the Mercado de Abastos, offer fresh regional produce, cured meats, cheeses, and more.

This way, we have completed the third stage of the Camino Francés. We have hiked to León and had the chance to enjoy some incredible sites, but there is still so much more to see, experience, and savor. The best is yet to come. Let’s continue!